A bookmaker (in case you’ve lived a sheltered life) is not one who writes or manufactures books but one who accepts bets on sporting events -- or just about anything else. A “turf accountant” (I love the euphemism of that term) is a bookmaker (bookie) who takes bets on horse races and it’s from that side of the betting world that this sandwich comes. The bookie would be pretty much unable to leave his station during the meet so he had to have something substantial to sustain him through the day. And this sandwich is nothing if not substantial.
It’s simplicity itself and can be taken to the racecourse or on hikes or to any event where food will be needed but may not be readily available. It’s great on a picnic.
You’ll need:
1½ lb. sirloin steak
Loaf of bread -- cibatta is good
Butter
Mustard
Salt and pepper

Grill the steak to preferred doneness and trim extra fat and gristle.
Cut the loaf longways and butter both halves.
Slice the meat into not-too-thin slices and place on the bread.
Season with salt, pepper and your choice of mustard.
Wrap in in wax-paper, place between two cutting boards and weigh with books, kettle or anything that will compress the sandwich for at least a half-hour. The juices from the meat will soak into the bread - a kind of more carniverous pan-bagnat.
Unwrap, slice into manageable pieces and re-pack in wax paper and foil.
This is a big sandwich -- all the better for sharing -- and most satisfying.
It’s great with a glass of porter or anything that induces good hearty burps.